You can do it, and depending on the prevailing weather patterns wherever you are located, it may be standing when you or even your children are gone but by basic principles of geometry and building science, it won't be as strong, and will thus be more likely to collapse, than if you have ceiling joists tying together those opposing walls, or at least one post or column from floor to roof beam in the middle, and preferably at 8 and 16 feet of that 24 feet span.įinally, most regions go by encompassing building codes. A stand alone building with a vaulted ceiling isn't going to be as strong. We build vaulted or cathedral ceilings all the time, but it's generally on an interior part of the house, surrounded by and tied into other rooms or sections of that house, which obviously makes it stronger. I did mention 2圆 wind beams, which serve the very purpose of what the term inplies, and which we are now discussing, but they will fail given enough force. ![]() It would be far less likely to happen, though. Granted, a strong enough wind at the right angle could collapse the roof even if there were ceiling joists tying the opposing walls together, which obviously makes it stronger. You may not be in an area of heavy snow, so the weight may not be a problem, but a strong wind could put enough force on the roof to push out the walls and collapse the roof. That said, a beam of whatever dimension will not preclude the roof from collapsing, given a strong enough force or weight. That was another poster ,and not me that was discussing with you the purpose of the ridge beam. I was wondering about the possibility of bolting together 2x12's, but I couldn't imagine any way to orient the seams that would suit me. If I'm wrong I'm wide open to any facts or information, but I can't see what would push a wall out if the ridge beam was correctly sized. The beam would have to bow in order to push the rafters "flatter", which causes them to become "longer", and push on the walls. If the beam never sways downward, then the walls won't push out. The only force acting on a roof ) other than winds, of) is gravity pushing straight down. I agree they support a ridge BOARD, but not a structural ridge BEAM. Like I said, various reasons for wanting to build the roof in this particular way.Īnd not to be argumentative, but I disagree about the walls and rafters being what supports a ridge beam. I don't want massive windows and walls on a small garage parked next to a "normal" sized ranch house. Montrous tall walls need very large windows to look "right". ![]() I also want the height, roof angle, general appearance of this building to match my house it's being built beside. Besides, I hate clutter and don't packrat things. It's so humid in my area that anything stored in an attic just gets ruined anyway. It also helps with fumes created welding, painting, staining, etc. I've found vaulted ceilings work really well to keep heat out of your face in a building that isn't constantly air conditioned. I hand dug my footers, for Pete's sake lol. This is what I do for fun in the evenings after work. Also, $1100 for 13 standard 24' trusses is just too much. ![]() The building is already on a slope ( rear is 5' above grade) and I don't want it to look like a light tower planted in my yard. ![]() I don't want 10' or higher walls because it would look out of proportion in a building this size. That's plenty of headroom to put a bike up on a lift. Two feet away from the walls ( figure that would be the area past any shelving) will be worth 10" of rise, so only 2" shy of 9'. The guy I was talking to was obviously busy, so I told him I'd just call back Tuesday, after the holiday.ĥx12 roof pitch will be worth 60" of rise over 12', so a 13' ceiling height in the center. Click to expand.I was wondering about the possibility of bolting together 2x12's, but I couldn't imagine any way to orient the seams that would suit me.Ī supplier I talked to briefly yesterday stocks a few different sizes of LVL's.
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